Divided Nation

Harmony is a word one uses easily to describe Thailand. Social cohesion and lack of conflict are among the most striking characteristics of the 'mysterious' kingdom. This is why the passion and anger of recent months has been so surprising, adding another layer of paradox to the puzzle of Thailand.

Just yesterday, while working on a story with Seth Mydans of the International Herald Tribune, we witnessed how the easy smiles and soft tones we are so accustomed to can evaporate when talk turns to politics.

Seeking access to a television so we could watch a government announcement, I asked a by-stander on the pavement opposite Lumpini Park if they could help. This being Thailand we were immediately ushered into somebody's home and proffered drinks and comfortable chairs. Nothing amiss - the generous and warm Thailand all tourists love.

Seth, seeing an opportunity for some comment and noting the exclamations from our hosts as they watched the political news on TV, ventured a few questions. A PAD rally had just passed in front of their house: "so what do you think of the PAD then," he asked our hosts. "I want to kill them," came the instantaneous reply. "They are sowing hatred and think they can do whatever they want," continued the 40-something woman wearing a tight leopard skin top. "I want to kill them all," she repeated. Within minutes, the tranquil Thai household had erupted into passionate argument. "Why are you saying such things in my house," responded one of the men. "Because it's the truth," responded the woman, who refused to give us her name saying they would come and kill her if she did.

When we finally took our apologetic leave, the peace of the household had been shattered and the woman who had spoken so forcefully was on the verge of tears.

In an international context such a scene might not seem so extraordinary. It would be commonplace in Italy or France, where passion oils the wheels of daily communication.
In Thailand, however, such expressions of passion are uncommon. A voice raised in anger is rare and usually cause for serious concern as it can be the preliminary to a violent outburst of cathartic rage.

The point here is that the current political deadlock in Thailand is unleashing passions that I have never seen (in the past 17 years). It is unveiling divisions that I have never heard so intensely expressed. Two years after Thaksin was ousted by the military, Thailand is riven as never before and passions are rising like an angry volcano before an eruption.

In this land of the Buddhist middle path, where compromise normally rules, few now seem ready to take the step backwards from their demands that is a pre-requisite for negotiation.
The Land of Smiles is locked in an alarming logic of conflict which can perhaps only be broken, if temporarily, by royal intervention.